by Celeste Lipford and Terry Lipford - last updated on 11/7/2025
Lake Como is an incredibly beautiful area. There are plenty of stunning Italian country villas which offer those million dollar views of the lake and mountains. The Navigazione Lago di Como Auto Ferry provided us with amazing views of various lake-side villages; Menagio, Bellagio, Varenna, Fiumelatte, Tremezzo - I could go on and on, but you get the idea right?
Just to make the geography clear to everyone; we drove to Lake Como from Switzerland, however, our hotel was in Varenna which is on the eastern side of the Lake. Because our drive from Grindelwald brought us south on the Italian A2 to the Lugano area on the western side of Lake Como, we needed a way to get to Varenna that did not involve driving around the southern end of the lake. Research showed that taking the auto ferry across the lake from Menaggio was probably the easiest route - and the most entertaining!
It is also worth noting that after we crossed the mountain pass on Switzerland Route 11, we then drove through the World's longest & deepest auto tunnel (AKA "Gotthard"). At 16.9 kilometers in length, it is the fifth longest auto tunnel in the world.
Getting around Lake Como is done much simpler via ferry boats, as the Italian city streets are very narrow and parking is generally infrequent. If you have never driven in Europe, Italy is not a good place to give it a try! In our case, we parked our rental car in the lockable hotel parking lot, and took the ferries around the Lake. Given that the lake is over 170 kilometers if you drove around it, makes a 4 kilometer ferry boat ride (Menaggio to Varenna) seem much more preferable doesn't it?
Click here for the Navigazione Lago di Como Auto Ferry website.
Lake Como, located in the northern part of Italy, is one of the most stunning and sought-after destinations in the world. Here are the most interesting facts about this beautiful lake:
Lake Como is located 25 miles north of Milan; it lies at an elevation of 653 feet (199 meters) in a depression surrounded by limestone and granite mountains that reach an elevation of about 2,000 feet (600 meters) in the south. It is 209 kilometers south of Switzerland and 264 miles south of Grindelwald - where we started. Click the map link (above) to see the area.
Varenna has a diverse range of accommodations, including hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, villas, and apartments. Specific counts vary by source, but there are approximately 40 to 50 lodging options in total, covering different budgets and preferences. If however you consider the entire Lake Como area, there are 6,116 hotels listed on Booking.com alone, with a large variety of options from luxury hotels to more budget-friendly accommodations, according to Tripadvisor.
Some popular hotels include:
During our pre-trip research, we knew we wanted to be in a hotel near to Lake Como, one that was close to restaurants & other attractions and one that provided secure parking. We selected Hotel Olivedo for all those reasons - it is adjacent to the Ferry Boat dock and has a gated parking area behing the hotel.
The hotel served breakfast each morning & it was included in the room price, and the espresso and fresh pastries were good. See the awning in image # 1? Breakfast was served under the awning; coffee, espresso & pastries - a typical "Continental Breakfast".
See how rapidly the hills behind the hotel rise? Castello di Vezio is at the top of those hills, so this picture should give you an even better idea of how steep the walk was to get to the Castello di Vezio!
The Cavallino Ristorante Trattoria dei Pescatori is to the right in the second image. The tree covered area is their outside seating area.
The hiking trail started just to the right of the hotel awning area for our hike up to the Castello di Vezio. That trail was a serious challenge, due to the heat wave that was taking place plus the steepness of the trail! Google Maps says it is a 1.2km trek to the Castle, but the combination of the steep trail and the heat made it seem much longer.
If you would prefer to do your own research for hotels in or near Varenna, click here to view a Google Search Results list of all of them.
Hotels that provide Parking & Air Conditioning
If you drive to Varenna, you are going to need somewhere to park and you should be aware that not every hotel is going to offer parking, and those hotels that do are going to charge you to use it. Air Conditioning is not automatic in Varenna hotels either, you will want to research to see if A/C & parking is available.
More Info for the Olivedo Hotel Varenna, IT
On our way to Varenna! A nice change of pace after driving here from Grindelwald, Switzerland ! We had departed Grindelwald about 7AM and it is now after 2PM, and the "traffic caused tension" from driving all of those city streets to get here is making me glad to be out of the car.
Click here to go to a Google Images set for the Menaggio Ferry Terminal and Lake Como.
We are looking forward to getting the luggage into the hotel room and then heading out to do some exploring.
It isn't obvious in this picture, but these are very small ferry boats. It held fewer than 15 vehicles, and it was able to do that only by careful positioning & parking by the crew.
From Switzerland, we drove on the Italian E35 autostrade to the Lugano area, where we got onto the SS340 to Menaggio. This was a very challenging drive, as the SS340 was frequently a narrow two lane road with numerous side streets. There are not many street or highway signs, so you have to be utilizing your mapping Application, or you will never find the Auto Ferry dock in Menaggio! This may have been the most stressful driving we did that day, as the streets are narrow and there were numerous side streets and turns that we had to make to reach the area where SS340 ran parallel to Lago di Lugano.
Once we reached the Menaggio area, we made several "false stops" (we discovered that there is more than one Auto Ferry dock) - we finally arrived and had to wait for the Auto Ferry to Varenna. You never have to wait very long for another ferry to show up, they are frequent!
However, you must pay attention to where each Auto Ferry is going, otherwise, you might wind up in Tremezzo when you really wanted to go to Varenna! Not to worry though, each boat crew shouts out what their destination is before they load cars or passengers.
The Lake Como ferry system is widely considered the best way to explore the region because it offers unparalleled scenic views, superior convenience over driving, and a cost-effective way to access the heart of lakeside towns. It transforms a simple journey into a core part of the vacation experience.
Superior Scenic Experience
Logistical Convenience and Efficiency
Cost-Effectiveness
In essence, the ferry system is the most authentic and relaxing way to experience the charm of Lake Como, allowing visitors to travel like locals while immersing themselves in the region's natural beauty without the common logistical headaches of road travel.
Posing with the statues; If you saw the "Amazing Race" (April 27, 2017) several years ago, Castello di Vezio is the place in Varenna where all the teams had a competition.
The Castle is located on a hill (1.1 miles) behind our hotel, in fact the walking path (the Scabium Trail) to go up to the Castello is adjacent to the hotel. Bellagio is on the right side of image # 2 (right) and Fiumelatte is on the left, approximately 6 kilometers from Varenna.
More Info for Castello di Vezio
The hike from Hotel Olivedo in Varenna to Castello di Vezio is a rewarding, moderately difficult uphill walk, generally taking around 30 to 40 minutes. Starting near the Varenna ferry pier, you follow signposted trails. We took the steep but shaded Scabium path, the path includes uneven stone steps and some steeper sections, requiring supportive footwear, but the stunning panoramic views of the lake and the chance to explore the medieval castle, its ghost sculptures, and bird of prey exhibits make the climb well worth the effort.
Image # 1: The Scabium trail was very steep, and it was very hot that day! We quickly became convinced that this trail was really meant for goats or donkeys! Halfway up the trail, was a spring fed water "shed" and that water was ice cold. We weren't sure about drinking it, because the building (shed?) it was in looked ancient, but the water was very clear.
Image # 2: The Castello di Vezio is at the top center of the image, as seen from the ferry boat. The mountains surrounding Lake Como are all limestone and granite mountains rising to a height of 2,000 feet in the south and more than 8,000 feet (2,400 meters) in the northeast. On the way back to Varenna from Bellagio, we noticed that we had a great view of the Castello di Vezio from the ferry boat. This picture gives you an idea of how high above Varenna the Castello is.
Image # 3: See the area below the tower on the left center of this picture? That is where the unusual statues were located.
Those statues are made out of wire, paper and plaster. The wire frame gives the statues their basic form, and the paper and wet plaster are applied and allowed to dry to achieve the final form.
It was fascinating to be in a place that we first learned of via a TV show, and to be able to walk about and see the results of a "team competition" where each team had to create new statues!
The stone building on the left, is the tower of the Castello di Vezio. It was built in the late 11th-early 12th century and was restored several times in the following centuries. In the late 19th century and in 1956 remains of tombs from the Iron Age, as well as weapons and armor were found in the area.
The local fishing community pulls their boats out of the water and onto that small beach in the center of this picture. The main part of the town of Varenna is to the right in that picture, approximately 1 kilometer past the fishing boats.
We are on one of the lake ferry boats, which has just departed the Varenna dock and are on our way to Bellagio. Such a beautiful morning, that we decided that we needed a selfie to remember that beautiful backdrop!
It isn't a very long boat ride from Varenna to Bellagio (1.9 miles) , and riding the Ferry Boat there as a pedestrian is preferable as we don't have to find parking, nor drive on the narrow Italian city streets.
The ferry boat is just arriving at the Bellagio dock, you can see another ferry just about to depart the dock. In fact, our Ferry Boat has slowed to a crawl to wait for the dock area to clear so that we can pull in.
The ferry boat captains always were quick & efficient in getting the boats docked & unloaded. One of the crew would then go ashore and yell out their destination so that everyone waiting for a ferry knew whether to board or not.
Our hotel is in the left center of the third image, it is the first building to the left of the dock (yellow exterior green awning at the lower right of the building). We were on the third floor, right side center window, so we had an excellent view of Lake Como.
Before we started to walk about Bellaggio, we decided to take a ride on the Bellagio Express - one of those small train car tours that travel around the peninsula. This worked out quite well, because the tour driver obviously knows Bellaggio a lot better than we do, and we saw quite a bit more than we would have if we had been walking. The open-air ride travels through the historic center and up into the hills, offering panoramic lake views. It is an ideal way to see the town's highlights without the steep walk, especially for families with small children, seniors, or those with mobility issues.
Image # 2 (right) is the bell tower of the Basilica of St. James in Bellagio. Click here to go to a good website for a more in depth description of this beautiful Basilica.
We had lunch at the Splendide bar (a Lakeside Restaurant), and then decided to walk about the Bellagio streets, maybe do a bit of shopping, or should I say "window shopping" as most things we saw were expensive.
This area of Bellagio is close to the Harbor and is only one of several areas where shopping can be found, but since we were really more interested in exploring & taking pictures, this was good enough for what we wanted.
As we were waiting for the Auto Ferry to arrive at the Bellagio dock, we walked over to this park area next to the dock. At the end of the park area was Lido di Bellagio where people were swimming.
The park's history is wrapped tightly with Bellagio's evolution. Originally a landing point for ferries, it has transformed into a vibrant public space. Dotted with sculptures and historical landmarks, it whispers tales of the town's rich past.
As we walked back to the Bellagio docks (center of image # 2). As you can see, it was a beautiful day, Lake Como was placid and there were a lot of boats all over the Lake.
This was a beautiful day for exploring, we had just completed our exploration of Bellagio and were now waiting for the Varenna Ferry to arrive.
Lake Como Auto Ferries
It is really quite nice not having to drive about these little towns, and not having to hassle for a parking place. Using the Auto Ferry as a pedestrian is simple, you buy your ticket for your destination and then walk onboard when that Ferry arrives.
Image # 1: We were on our way to the Il Molo Restaurant, which is one of the first sidewalk restaurants nearest the large tree in the right center of this picture.
This walkway along the lake connects the area of Varenna where we were staying at the Hotel Olivedo, to the other end of Varenna where there were more restaurants & shopping.
Image # 1 displays the sidewalk restaurants along the edge of the lake. The restaurant area is adjacent to the shopping area of Varenna.
Image # 2: One of the lake ferry boats gliding into the Varenna dock as we were walking to dinner. There are several ferry boat companies operating on the lake, so their arrivals and departures are frequent. And as I said previously, riding these boats and not driving your car is a great way to see the area.
As of June 15, 2025 there are at least 20 restaurants in Varenna, Italy, according to Varenna Turismo. The town offers a variety of dining options, including lakeside restaurants and establishments serving traditional Italian cuisine.
Below you will find several restaurants that we dined at which we can recommend, however if you would prefer to perform your own research, here is a link to a Google Search Results list for "restaurants in Varenna, Italy".
Bar Il Molo
I had lasagna and it was excellent, we both had prosecco and Celeste had a salmon salad which she said was very good. Not only was the food here quite good, their sidewalk seating gave us a great view of the Lake and the sunset, the vibe was tranquil.
Not sure if you can tell or not, but Lake Como is in the right center background of this picture, beyond the people seated at the next restaurant from where we were seated.
Click here to visit their Restaurant Website
La Veranda dei Pescatori
We ate here several times, and one afternoon we had ice cream sundaes after we completed our hike to the Castello di Vezio. Everthing we had here was very good, which includes; Chianti, linguine with clams, fresh baked bread, etc.
You will find a wide range of opinions about this restaurant if you utilize Tripadvisor, our review gave it high marks, but your mileage may vary from what we experienced.
NOTE: The name of this restaurant has changed since we were there, at the time of our visit it was named 'Cavallino Ristorante Trattoria di Valdi'. As of July 2025 it now is named 'La Veranda dei Pescatori'.
Click here to visit their Restaurant Website
Plan Your Visit to Lake Como Travel Resources — Maps, Parking, Passes & Links
Ferry Game Plan
Base in Varenna or Bellagio and buy a mid-lake day pass to hop between Varenna ⇄ Bellagio ⇄ Menaggio. Start early to beat crowds; ride at sunset for the best photos. On busy weekends, use the slow boat for more deck space.There are pros and cons for each month. The weather of Como Lake in July and August normally is best, considering temperatures reach 77 degrees farenheit. The best time is often considered to be spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). These periods offer pleasant weather, blooming gardens, and fewer crowds than the peak summer season. The summer months of July and August can be very hot and crowded.
It is approximately 29 miles (47 km) long and 2.5 miles (4 km) wide, with a surface area of about 56 square miles (146 sq km). Its maximum depth is 1,358 feet (414 m).
The water temperature range is from 5-6 to 23-24 (centigrade) during the summer season. During springtime, the water temperature ranges from 17 to 20 degrees. The maximum depth is 418 meters (near Argegno) and Lake Como is one of the deepest lakes in Europe. The Alto Lario , as the locals call the northern part of Lake Como , meets almost 100% of the requirements for bathing water on rivers and beaches. On the other hand, the southern arm of the lake towards Como is only about 60%.
Skiarea Valchiavenna. The best time is often considered to be spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). These periods offer pleasant weather, blooming gardens, and fewer crowds than the peak summer season. The summer months of July and August can be very hot and crowded.The town of Madesimo is close by. The nearest ski lift is in Campodolcino.
Driving around Lake Como can be difficult, streets are narrow, they change names on some random basis and locals tend to drive faster than the speed limits. If you’d rather take the lake to get around, several boats traverse Lake Como throughout the day. The Navigation Laghi operates ferryboats and hydrofoils between the main towns of Lake Como, as well as to nearby Switzerland and other villages. Tickets for these services can be purchased directly from the ticket office at the wharf.
There are nearly a thousand accommodations in the Lake Como area, and "best" is somewhat subjective. We would encourage you to do some research, and stay somewhere that has parking (if you are driving), or somewhere that is close to a ferry dock (to allow you to get around the lake). Here is a link to a Google Search Results page for "accommodations in Lake Como". Note that Bellagio, Menaggio, Varenna, Lenno or Tremezzo are all popular places to visit and all are connected by the Lake Como Ferry Boat companies. Yes, you could drive, but parking is not easy and all roads in that area are two lanes - difficult but doable.
Prices can vary, but staying and dining in popular, touristy spots can be expensive, especially during peak season. To save money, some suggest exploring family-owned trattorias and visiting during the off-season.
Lake Como presents a mix of accessible and challenging terrain for wheelchair users, making it more friendly in some areas than others. While you can enjoy many highlights with proper planning, mobility impairments will require research and possibly the use of specialized services.
The larger towns of Como and Menaggio offer the most level ground and accessible areas. In Como, the lakeside promenade (Passeggiata Lino Gelpi) and a large pedestrian shopping area are relatively flat. Menaggio also features a wide waterfront promenade and a pedestrian-only center.
Many of the smaller, picturesque lakeside towns like Varenna and Bellagio are built into hillsides with narrow, cobblestoned lanes. While Varenna has a scenic, level boardwalk near the ferry, the village itself is very steep with stepped alleyways. In Bellagio, the waterfront is flat and accessible, but most of the historic shopping streets are stepped.
Yes, many villages offer hiking trails into the hills. The easy, 10-kilometer Greenway Hiking Trail is a popular choice along the western shore. Here is a link to the All Trails website page that describes several popular Lake Como hikes.
The closest airports are Milan Malpensa (MXP), Milan Linate (LIN), and Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY). From there, travelers can take a combination of trains and buses to reach the lake.
Yes. Several oprators run small auto ferries between key towns such as Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio. Each vessel typically carries about 12 to 15 cars and departs frequently throughout the day. You simply queue at the dock and pay at the ticket window or kiosk. For visitors driving around the lake, the ferry is the easiest way to avoid narrow mountain roads and busy village traffic.
From Milano Centrale, take the Trenord regional train to Varenna-Esino station. The journey takes about an hour and offers scenic views of the countryside. When you arrive, it’s a short walk downhill to the Varenna ferry terminal, where you can connect to Bellagio, Menaggio, and other towns by boat.
Our visit to Lake Como was part of a longer European road trip and we drove from Grindelwald across the Alps, through the Gotthard Tunnel and then finally to the Menaggio area where we rode the Auto Ferry to Varenna. The ferry system here is excellent—multiple companies operate frequent departures for both pedestrians and vehicles, and even the small auto ferries can usually carry 12 to 15 cars at a time.
If you plan to drive, parking around Lake Como can be a serious challenge. Streets are narrow, parking spaces are limited, and most hotels in the old villages have little or no parking at all. We researched heavily before our visit and specifically chose an accommodation that offered secure, gated parking—it made our stay far more relaxed. If you can, do the same.
Varenna:
Bellagio:
Lenno, Tremezzo, and Menaggio:
Optional activities:
The above is more of a "do not miss these" list as opposed to an "itinerary", but it covers the highlights we enjoyed during our three-day visit and makes good use of Lake Como’s outstanding ferry network—still the best way to see the lake without the stress of parking.
As you can see on this page, we saw a lot of the area and had a huge amount of fun exploring, however, we did not manage to see or do everything that can be found in Lake Como. In the list below, the acronym SERP stands for "Search Engine Results Page". And it goes without saying that we are talking about Google Search;
Note: All images featured on this page are the exclusive property of Just Traveling Thru, LLC, unless otherwise stated. When images from external sources are used, full credit is given to the original creator, along with a link to the specified license or usage terms. We are committed to respecting copyright and intellectual property rights, ensuring that all third-party images are properly attributed. If you have any questions regarding image ownership or usage rights, please feel free to contact us.
Affiliate Links: We may earn a commission if you make a purchase through one of our affiliate links. This helps support our travel content — thank you!
Content: To review any of our content, make suggestions and/or comments, please click the "About" menu link at the top of this page. You will find our "Contact Us" link on that drop-down menu.
This is the most direct route from Varenna's ferry terminal.