Viking Cruise: Les Andelys, France

The Viking 'Spirit' departed Rouen at 6:30AM, so we were able to have breakfast and watch the ship depart. These river cruising ships do not require a large "shore crew", they have a few guys to handle the ropes and to insure that nothing gets snagged by the ship, the ship casts off and away we go.

Our destination today, was Les Andelys, where Richard I of England, feudal Duke of Normandy, better known as Richard the Lionheart, constructed Château Gaillard to block the French King (Phillip II) and Army from coming up the River Seine to attack Normandy. Richard had it constructed high on a hill overlooking Les Andelys.

Richard the Lion Heart started construction of Château Gaillard in 1196, and it was completed in two years. This was remarkable construction speed, considering that it sits high on a hill, and everything had to be hauled up to the site, everything including; blocks of stone, cannon, other weapons for the troops stationed there, food for the troops, gun powder, etc, etc..

Château Gaillard was attacked (and seized) by Phillip II in 1204, which meant that it did not have much of a useful life for the English King. Small reward for King Richard, who thought that Normandy could remain an English possession, as long as Château Gaillard blocked the French from marching up the River Seine valley. By the end of 1204, Phiilip II had subjugated all of Normandy, Rouen took the longest to fall requiring 40 days of siege by the Army of France.

Click here to go to the Chateau Gaillard's Wikipedia Page and read more about it's interesting history.

The Viking Spirit docked along the Quai Grimoult, and as we could see the Chateau from the ship, we thought that it would be an easy hike. We wound up walking through the Parc du Petit Andelys and then on to the Parc de repos (approximately 600 meters) because we assumed that we would see a sign that identified a trail up to the Chateau. We eventually found a trail, but found out later that there was a substantially simpler walk if we had just walked up the Chemin du Château de la Gaillard.

When we departed the Chateau, we walked back to Les Andelys via the Chemin du Château de la Gaillard. This was a much simpler route, flat and it brought us into the village near the Villa Aliénor.

Not all of the debris found at Château Gaillard is from the original fortress. The castle, built by Richard the Lionheart in the late 12th century, underwent significant changes, including multiple phases of damage and reconstruction over centuries. Château Gaillard suffered from sieges, including a major one in 1204 when French forces, led by Philip II, captured it from the English. During these conflicts, parts of the fortress were damaged, and subsequent repairs and fortifications likely introduced additional materials.

In the 16th century, King Henry IV of France ordered the dismantling of many fortifications across France, including Château Gaillard, to prevent their use by rebellious forces. As a result, the castle was partly demolished, which contributed further to the rubble around the site. Additionally, the passage of time and natural erosion added to the debris and altered some of the original materials.

These pictures (taken from the ramparts of the Castle), gives you a better idea of the commanding view of the River Seine from the Castle. The view of the Seine River and the village below, were excellent - given that the ruins sit 90 meters above the village!

The total cost of the Château Gaillard construction has been estimated at around £12,000 (£25,000,000 in today's monetary value), a considerable expense when you consider that Richard only spent £7,000 on castles across England during his reign as King.

Some of these views are also utilized by various Viking brochures, so it might be familiar to any of you who have any of them.