by Celeste Lipford and Terry Lipford - last updated on 10/2/2025
After completing our visit to the city of Bordeaux, our next major destination on our 2013 European adventure was the captivating Languedoc region in southern France. Our itinerary was packed with historic and scenic highlights, including visits to several awe-inspiring Cathar fortresses, the iconic medieval city of Carcassonne, the charming village of Trèbes, and the picturesque Canal du Midi. Our home base for this leg of the trip was the small but peaceful village of Rustiques, located just a few miles east of Carcassonne, where we had rented a cozy house nestled in the countryside.
Our drive from Bordeaux took us along the A-89 eastward to Bergerac, offering scenic views of the Dordogne region, before heading south via the A61 autoroute from Toulouse to Carcassonne. As we neared our final destination, we knew we’d be relying heavily on the guidance of "Suzette" — our trusty TomTom GPS voice—to navigate the smaller rural roads and lead us to our rental tucked away in Rustiques. With excitement building for the days ahead, we looked forward to immersing ourselves in the region’s rich history, stunning landscapes, and unforgettable cultural experiences.
While pondering the map of Rustiques, we saw that we would not only cross the L'Aude River, but also the Canal du Midi, which is an interesting piece of history all by itself, ie; it was constructed starting in 1667, contains 328 structures (locks, aqueducts, bridges, tunnels, etc.) and was meant to provide a navigable route from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean and thereby blocking the English from attacking and destroying French ships. Construction required 12,000 laborers and over 15 years to complete.
The Canal du Midi was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, because of its outstanding engineering and artistic design, and it was designated as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 2016.
Rustiques, France, is a charming, petite village located in the Aude department of southern France, near Carcassonne. With a population of fewer than 500 residents, this quintessentially French hamlet exudes tranquility and a sense of timelessness. Its size is reflected in its intimate layout, featuring a small cluster of stone houses, narrow lanes, and a central church that anchors the community.
Despite its small footprint, Rustiques is steeped in history, with traces of Roman influence and medieval heritage visible in its architecture. Visitors often explore its quiet streets, the picturesque Eglise Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse, and the surrounding vineyards that produce some of the region's finest wines.
Image # 1: With Suzette (our Tom-Tom map device) navigating, we were able to reach our Rustiques house rental, and unpacked the car. As can be seen in this picture, we had to park our car in a court yard perhaps a block away, and carry everything down this alley to our house rental. This building had to be 600 years old, however, the interior had been completely redone and was very comfortable. We had a bit of trouble getting in with an unusual locking system but we eventually worked it out. Between that and a frozen pizza that fell through the grates in the kitchen oven, we racked up two more failures for our "FAIL" list. I spent over an hour cleaning the pizza dough off the bottom of the oven before we departed.
Image # 2: Here is the other end of that alley, which opens out onto the "main street" of Rustiques. Not a lot of traffic in this little village, as it is surrounded by acres and acres of grapes. With a 2020 population of 509 (per Wikipedia), traffic isn't an issue for this village, mostly people who commute to Carcassonne, or who have a vacation house here.
The town of Trèbes (6,000 inhabitants) is barely 1.5 km away and provides all the local shops (supermarkets, shops, medical centers, pharmacy, secondary school) for the residents of Rustiques.
Carcassonne Fortress
The fortified city consists essentially of a concentric design of two outer walls with 53 towers and barbicans to prevent attack by siege engines. The castle itself possesses its own drawbridge and ditch leading to a central keep. The walls consist of towers built over quite a long period. One section is Roman and is notably different from the medieval walls, with the tell-tale red brick layers and the shallow pitch terracotta tile roofs. One of these towers housed the Catholic Inquisition in the 13th century and is still known as "The Inquisition Tower".
Our day trip here from Rustiques, was directed only at the fortress because we knew that it would take most of the day to fully explore it - so our plan was to explore it all and eat lunch here as well.
To say our visit to the Cité de Carcassonne was "interesting" wouldn't do it justice. It was a complete transportation to another time, a captivating plunge into a living medieval world that I still find hard to believe was real.
The moment we crossed the Pont Vieux and saw the fortress sprawling across the hilltop, we knew we were in for something special. With its 52 towers and massive double walls standing against the sky, it looked like something straight out of a grand historical epic. This wasn't some crumbling ruin; it was a vibrant, perfectly preserved fortified city.
Above image is the property of Txllxt TxllxT via Wikimedia Commons using the CC BY-SA 4.0 license
Since the Carcassonne Fortress was only 10 kilometers away from Rustiques, and it is one of the largest completely walled fortresses in Europe, we decided that a day trip there was a good idea. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997.
Video is the property of the Carcassonne City Guide, and is included here because it is a good overview of the city & fortress.
Click here to go to their website.
NOTE: Click the video poster image above to launch the YouTube video.
UNESCO Sites in France
As of 2025, there are 54 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in France, making it the fourth country with the most inscribed sites in the world. These include 45 cultural, 7 natural, and 2 mixed sites, with six properties being transboundary in nature. If you are interested in where these sites are take a look at our French UNESCO Sites page.
Carcassonne Fortress Walls
Carcassonne Fortress WallsThe Cité de Carcassonne is a massive medieval fortress (the 11th largest in the world) renowned for its concentric double-wall design, with a nearly 3 km perimeter punctuated by 52 towers. Within its extensive stone walls, the citadel contains a fully operational town featuring cobbled streets, houses, shops, hotels, and restaurants. Key historical structures include the Château Comtal, a 12th-century castle with its own inner defenses, and the impressive Gothic-Romanesque Basilique Saint-Nazaire, known for its stained-glass windows. The complex, much of which was restored in the 19th century, also incorporates a dry moat, fortified gates like the Porte Narbonnaise, and sections of older Roman and Visigothic architecture.
We drove to Carcassonne early in the day, as we knew that tourists would be out & about early, and they would grab all the parking spots. We found an excellent spot two blocks from the castle, and hiked over and up the hill to explore the castle interior.
The fortress is rectangular in shape and has the following dimensions:
Because the fortress is so large, and because it is so popular for tourists, here are a few tips:
Because Rustiques is only 8 kilometers away, we decided to drive over to the Canal du Midi, and explore the area along the waterway.
Canal du Midi Path
Canalboat on the Canal du Midi
Canal du Mide Foot BridgeAs you can see in image # 1, the waterway had tall trees along both banks, and there were a number of people sailing up & down the waterway in various types of boats; house boats, recreational boats, as well as large cabin cruiser style boats. It's possible to rent boats and travel the Canal du Midi and it is a very popular thing for couples and families to do in the summer time.
Image # 2 is one of the many houseboats we saw on the Canal, French families enjoying a nice cruise along the shady sections. If I recall, this boat was tied up, and the family had gotten off to go fishing in the River L'Aude.
Image # 3 was taken as we walked west on the canal foot path, you can see a pedestrian bridge in the near distance.
Quick History Lesson: The Canal du Midi is a 240 kilometer (150 mile) long canal in Southern France. Originally named the Canal Royal en Languedoc (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to Canal du Midi in 1789, the canal was at the time considered one of the greatest construction works of the 17th century.
The canal connects the Garonne to the Étang de Thau on the Mediterranean and along with the 193 kilometer (120 mile) long Canal de Garonne forms the Canal des Deux Mers, joining the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. The canal runs from the city of Toulouse down to the Étang de Thau near the Mediterranean. The Canal was constructed from 1666 to 1681.
Canal du Midi Entering Trèbes, FranceStanding on the picturesque L'Aude Bridge, we took a moment to look eastward toward the charming village of Trèbes. This small, peaceful village is nestled in the heart of the Aude department in southern France, just 7 kilometers east of the historic fortified city of Carcassonne and a short 3-kilometer drive southwest of Rustiques, where our rental house was located.
With its quaint stone buildings, narrow streets, and friendly atmosphere, Trèbes felt like a quintessential French village. The Canal du Midi runs right through the town, adding a scenic, tranquil vibe, especially as boats gently pass through the nearby locks. When we stayed in Rustiques, this village became our go-to spot for groceries, daily essentials, and even a café stop or two.
Image Credit: Above image is the property of Archaeodontosaurus via Wikimedia Commons using the CC BY-SA 4.0 license
These images are of the Canal du Midi, as it crossed beneath the Pont de Trèbes sur l'aude bridge in the little town of Trèbes.
As you can no doubt discern, Rustiques is not large enough to have a grocery or other stores, so all of our provisioning came from trips to Trèbes. It was only a 3 kilometer drive, through some pretty countryside.
Image # 2 is the south bank of the River Aude (AKA "Canal du Midi") and you can see all of the establishments that cater to the boating public. Lively section of the village! You can also see the docking and sidewalk restaurant areas in image # 2. Lots of places for people who are traveling up & down the canal, to stop, buy groceries, or have a meal.
This was a very scenic spot, and even though it is early afternoon, there were a number of people already enjoying a glass of wine in the sidewalk cafes.
Château Comtal and Ramparts: Visit the castle and its fortifications, which are a prominent feature of the city's defenses.
Basilique Saint-Nazaire: Admire this remarkable example of medieval Gothic architecture and stained glass windows.
Museum of the Inquisition: Discover the history of the Cathars and the Albigensian Crusade in this museum.
Pont Vieux: Walk across this ancient stone bridge for iconic views of the fortified city.
La Bastide Saint-Louis: Explore the charming medieval town on the other side of the river, away from the Cité.
Cathar Castles: There are numerous Cathar castles near Carcassonne, with the most well-known cluster being the "Five Sons of Carcassonne," which include Peyrepertuse, Quéribus, Puilaurens, Aguilar, and Termes. In addition, there is the Château de Saissac, one of the oldest in the region, and the Châteaux de Lastours, an ensemble of four castles perched on a rocky spur about 25 minutes from Carcassonne.
Gouffre Géant de Cabrespine: A visit to the Gouffre Géant de Cabrespine is a journey into one of Europe's largest and most spectacular underground chasms, offering a memorable experience for multiple types of visitors. Standard tours allow you to marvel at the immense scale of the main chamber and its stunning array of geological formations, including aragonite crystals, all while walking along secure walkways and a thrilling glass balcony suspended 200 meters above the cavern floor. For the more adventurous, the site offers an adrenaline-pumping "Accro Cave" course with zip lines and bridges, or a guided underground river exploration that follows in the footsteps of the first spelunkers.
Canal du Midi: Experience this historic canal, another UNESCO World Heritage site, by taking a boat trip.
Exploring vineyards near Carcassonne: A great day trip exploring vineyards near Carcassonne can include Domaine O'Vineyards for a scenic experience with wine and rooms, and the historic Domaine de Baronarques for a guided cellar tour and tasting. For a unique adventure, consider a vintage Solex (moped) tour that combines vineyard and estate visits with a guided tasting through the local wine-growing landscapes of the Languedoc region.
The following list contains links to all of our other French Destinations & Information Pages, click any link to go to that page.
Note: All images featured on this page are the exclusive property of Just Traveling Thru, LLC, unless otherwise stated. When images from external sources are used, full credit is given to the original creator, along with a link to the specified license or usage terms. We are committed to respecting copyright and intellectual property rights, ensuring that all third-party images are properly attributed. If you have any questions regarding image ownership or usage rights, please feel free to contact us.
Affiliate Links: We may earn a commission if you make a purchase through one of our affiliate links. This helps support our travel content — thank you!
Content: To review any of our content, make suggestions and/or comments, please click the "About" menu link at the top of this page. You will find our "Contact Us" link on that drop-down menu.
Click above Image to view larger Google Map
Carcassonne Tours via GetYourGuide
