Chinon, France: Base Camp # 2

What is Chinon France known for?

Chinon France served as a favorite residence for French kings, including Henry II, Richard the Lionheart, and Charles VII. The Chateau de Chinon is a significant landmark, overlooking the town from a rocky outcrop above the Vienne River. It is renowned for its production of Chinon wine made from Cabernet Franc grapes and it is a popular destination for people exploring the Loire Valley.

Chinon was our pick as the second base camp for our week in the Loire Valley. Our goal with each basecamp was to explore Chateaus in the area and to limit our driving each day. Chinon is a picturesque town located next to the Vienne River in the Indre-et-Loire department in the Loire Valley region. It is approximately 260 kilometers southwest of Paris and 47 kilometers southwest of Tours. Its population is only about 8,500, there is a quaint old town area, numerous restaurants, a tourist office and shopping. Chateau de Chinon is perched on a hill above the town and there are numerous chateaus within driving distance. Chinon was the perfect place to stay for this part of our Loire Valley Exploration. To learn more about our entire trip see our Loire Valley Trip overview page.

Chinon's story begins around the 10th century with the construction of a wooden fort on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Vienne River. This strategic location made it a coveted possession, changing hands numerous times throughout the centuries. By the 12th century, the wooden structure had transformed into the formidable Château de Chinon, a symbol of power and a key defensive point.

The 12th and 13th centuries saw Chinon's rise to prominence. Henry II Plantagenet, King of England and Duke of Anjou, made Chinon his favorite residence, expanding the chateau and transforming it into a bustling court. His son, Richard the Lionheart, spent much of his reign here, planning his crusades and solidifying Chinon's place in medieval history. In fact, Richard the Lion Heart grew up here with his mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Eleanor effectively governed Poitou and Aquitaine from 1168, with Richard at her side, and Richard learned the trade of ruling from her. At the age of 12 he was invested as Count of Poitou and at 14 as Duke of Aquitaine.

The famous Joan of Arc meeting with the Charles VII future king of France took place at the Fortress of Chinon in February 1429. Joan of Arc's pivotal visit to Chinon in 1429 marked a turning point in French history, but for the town itself, the years that followed were a period of gradual change and adaptation.

With the coronation of Charles VII in Reims following Joan of Arc's victories, the need for a central base diminished. Chinon, once a bustling royal court, began to lose its political significance. The focus of power shifted to the Loire Valley's grander châteaux like Amboise and Chambord.

By the 16th century, Chinon had transitioned from a prominent royal stronghold to a thriving center of commerce and renowned wine production. The chateau, though no longer a seat of power, became a prison, housing prominent figures during periods of political unrest.

The drive from Angers (our first base camp) to Chinon was not quite 100 kilometers (via the A-85). Chinon is on the south side of the Loire River, so we exited the A-85 onto the D-749. The region between Angers and Chinon, is renowned for its picturesque vineyards and historic wineries. This scenic stretch along the Loire River is often referred to as the "Garden of France" due to its lush landscapes and fertile soils, making it an ideal terroir for winemaking.

We couldn’t have asked for a more picturesque setting. As we drove across the bridge over the Vienne river into town I was able to snap a few photos of the fortress up on the hill as we crossed.

Being directly next to the Vienne river gave it an extra charm and took advantage of strolling next to the river while we were there. We stayed in the old part of town in a VRBO rental. It was a beautiful place with plenty of room for us to spread out. After a few days in a tiny hotel room in Angers we were thrilled to have a little space. We were also excited to have a Creperie directly below our rental but then were sad to realize that they were on vacation and not going to be open while we were there. It was too bad because “Crêperie du Grand Carroi" gets good reviews online.

The town was quiet when we were there in September. There were several restaurants in town and a Carrefour which was just in the center of town and perfect for stocking our refrigerator.

We stayed in Chinon for three nights and visited four chateaus while we were there: Chateau de Chinon, also known as the 'Royal Fortress of Chinon,' Château d’Ussé, Château de Villandry, and Château d’Azay-le-Rideau. You can see on this map how many Chateaux there are in the area. We did our research and narrowed it down to this list. You may do your own research and decide that there are others you would like to see. We were extremely impressed with each of these castles, so much so that each of them deserved their own web page.

• Visit Les Caves Painctes: also known as the "Painted Caves," are a fascinating historical site located near Chinon. These caves re not wineries themselves, are a series of underground tunnels and caves that were used as quarries during the Middle Ages. They gained their name from the vibrant medieval frescoes that adorn the walls of some of the chambers. These paintings depict scenes of daily life, religious motifs, and historical events, providing a glimpse into the art and culture of the time. Guided tours are typically available during peak season.
• Rent a Bicycle: There are (Chinon bicycle rental shops) and explore the countryside around Chinon. There are several cycling routes that take you through vineyards, villages, and scenic landscapes, providing a refreshing outdoor experience.
• Take a Tour: with the vintage tour company which gets wonderfuls reviews if you are looking for a tour of the region.
• Visit a Museum: Explore the history and culture of Chinon by visiting museums such as the Musée Jeanne d'Arc, dedicated to the life of Joan of Arc, or the Musée Animé du Vin et de la Tonnellerie, which showcases the art of winemaking.
• Visit a Winery or Two: There are several wineries located in or near Chinon town where you can experience wine tasting and learn about local winemaking traditions. One prominent winery located within the town is Domaine Couly-Dutheil. This winery has a tasting room where you can sample their wines and often offers tours of their vineyards and cellars, allowing visitors to gain insight into the winemaking process. Check out our links in the “Plan Your Visit to Chinon, France section for other options.

• How can I get to Chinon, France?

  By Train: You can take a train from Paris Orly to Chinon via Gare d'Antony, Gare d'Antony, Massy - Palaiseau, Massy-Tgv, St-Pierre-des-Corps, St Pierre Des Corps, and Tours in around 3 hours 49 minutes. You need to be careful with your train selection, as a TGV train can make the trip to Chinon in 2 hours and 12 minutes. The slower TER trains (making more stops along the way) can take considerably longer.

  By Plane: The nearest airport to Chinon is Tours Val de Loire Airport, 57 kilometers. The Nantes Atlantique Airport is 190 kilometers from Chinon. Both airports have auto rental facilities.

  By Car: Chinon is 290 kilometers from Paris via the A-10 Autoroute, requiring approximately 3 hours and 15 minutes.it is approximately 260 kilometers southwest of Paris and 47 kilometers southwest of Tours and 100 kilometers east of Angers.

• Where should I stay in Chinon? We used a VRBO rental, however as Chinon is a popular visitation destination, there are several mostly 3 star hotels the area including a Best Western and a LOGIS hotel that get good reviews. Here is a link to a Google Search Results page for "hotels in Chinon France".

  NOTE: Our VRBO rental in Chinon was a very large and comfortable apartment on the top floor (no elevator) of a private building in the old town pedestrian area. Very modern & well equipped with all the amenities (including A/C, washing machine and a flat panel TV), it was perfectly located for our purposes. We utilized a free parking lot near the Loire River, which worked out nicely for us because it was perhaps a half mile from our apartment. We had to move the car on our last day in Chinon, as there is a weekly market that utilizes the entire parking lot, but we found a payant space close to the fortress elevator and just a few blocks from our apartment.

• Where are the restaurants in Chinon? There are quite a few restaurants, here is a link to a Google Search Results list for "restaurants in Chinon France".
• Where can I find good wine in Chinon? Chinon is known for its delicious wine. The region around Chinon produces a variety of red wines, including Cabernet Franc and Chinon Rosé. Visitors to Chinon can sample the local wines at one of the many wine bars and restaurants in the town. Here is a Google Search Results link for wine bars and shops in Chinon France.
• Where can I find some good hikes around Chinon? Here is a good list of Hikes from the "All Trails" website. For nature enthusiasts, the surrounding countryside offers hiking and cycling trails that wind through vineyards and along the riverbanks.

The following list contains links to all of our other French Destinations, click any blue colored link to go to that page.